Samples of ‘Candlesticks’ - The Anglican Church publication of Izmir 1950 -1960 - copies retained in the Guildhall library in London
Vol I, no. 6 – Winter 1951-52
Boudja Past and Present
(written by one of the last Anglo residents of Buca)
In a Dutch 17th century book Boudja is spoken as a place of woods and streams – now there are still fine old cypress and olive trees to be seen but only one stream.
Up till 1922 Boudja’s population consisted mostly of English and Greeks and a few Dutch, the latter built some fine houses, the most attractive was the Lees, a charming low house built around a paved courtyard, planted with myrtle bushes, it was burnt, not long ago. One still sees mounting blocks and hitching-rings by the doors, reminding one of the days when horses or donkeys were the only means of transport.
Early in the last century brigands found Boudja suitable for their activities, Mr Edward Maltass was acquainted with one, Katiji Jani, by name, who begged him to induce Dr Macraith, the Boudja doctor, to visit his sick child. Mr Maltass did so. Later Katiji was horrified to find that some of his band had captured his benefactor, and he was at once released. Katiji went so far as to occupy the village for a fortnight, at the end of which he was ejected by soldiers, sent by the Vali [provincial governor]. Two of his men were shot and the rest escaped.
Shortly before the Greek war of independence (1821), Lord Byron spent some days here as the guest of Mr Werry, who was then H.B.M. Consul in Smyrna. The house, now a han [warehouse], is near our church. Lord Byron carved his name on the wall of one of the rooms, it was cut out and treasured by the Werry family. Unfortunately it was burnt when his grand-daughter’s (Mrs Guiffray) house caught fire. He also carved his name on a cypress tree in a beautiful alley, which then belonged to the Gout family that was also cut out and sent to England. We are told that he finished writing the Bride of Abydos while pacing up and down the alley.
Since 1835 there has been a Protestant place of in Boudja. In 1866 our beautiful present church was built; the first vicar was Revd. William Lewis, the last Revd. Ashe. There are some interesting tomb stones in the churchyard and some very fine cypress trees.
In 1900 brigands again appear, one called Chiva took, and held to ransom, the late Mr Costa Hadji Daoud, was then a boy of 14. They hid him in the Circassian quarter of Boudja but at the end of a fortnight he persuaded one of his guards to help him escape, promising him the whole of the ransom. All went well and he reached home safe and sound. The last of the brigands, Captain Andrea was murdered by some Greek villagers; evidently they thought he would give Boudja a bad name. The three brigands I have mentioned were all Greeks.
During the 1914 war life went on much as usual, but in 1922, when the Greco-Turkish war culminated in the fire of Smyrna, Mr Barff was the only English person to remain. Many Greeks took refuge in his garden, where he was able to keep them in safety till they were evacuated to Greece by the Americans.
When things were settled Boudja became very prosperous; the old residents came back and most of the staff of the Aidin Railway settled here. The Tennis club came into being and for a short time a Golf club.
The Tennis club still exists but only bridge is played there now and for various reasons the British community has now dwindled to seven. There is now a very large Turkish population, a few Italians and a few Greeks. We hear that the authorities wish Boudja to be a wholly agricultural village. Perhaps it’s all for the best; it is pleasant at evening to see the village goats returning with the old goatherd, bells tinkling, carts and donkeys plodding homewards. Boudja might otherwise have taken to itself a ‘dreary Occidentalism’.
Vol I, no 11 – Spring 1953
Herbert James Whittall
The Future of All Saint’s Church, Boudjah
Vol I, no 17 – Autumn 1954
Cordial relations with German Community Church
Vol I, no 19 – Spring 1955
Ada Charlotte von Eichstorff
Ester Marian Giraud
Vol I, no 20 – Summer 1955
Alithea Leila Whittall
It is with deep sorrow that we record the death of Alithea Leila Whittall, after a painful illness bravely borne. The news has already been received with profound regret in Cyprus, where until recently she always spent the summer months at her house at Troodos. We have received a tribute of appreciation from one whose friendship she enjoyed and highly valued at both places, (The Rt. Rev. Bishop H.J. Buxton, formerly Archdeacon of Cyprus).
The late Mr Williamson came out from the North of England as a Constructional Engineer on the Aydin Railway, the building and running of which was a notable service rendered by Great Britain to Turkey, which brought many settlers to this land. Here he married a member of the long resident Barker family and had sixteen children. Two of their daughters, who became so widely known and much beloved as “Sister Grace” and “Aunt Alithea”, were fully trained in England in maternity work and nursing respectively. On their return they ultimately opened a greatly valued “clinique” at Alsancak. Both were pillars of the church, and the family trait which H.V. Morton described so graphically of Sister Grace in his book “In the steps of St. Paul”, was shared no less conspicously by her sister “Aunt Alithea”: - “No other nation in the world breeds this type, she was the kind of middle-aged Englishwoman who would create a nice antiseptic hospital in a desert or swamp, and who would walk deliberately through a riot or revolution with an unrolled umbrella, trying to restore order with a series of sharp raps.”
The story goes that the late Mr. Fred Whittall of Ceylon and Bornova, then a widower with a son and daughter, entered the clinique as a sick man and emerged fully restored to health with a great admiration and affection for Miss Alithea Williamson, whom he eventually married. At all events this second marriage was richly blessed, and both during her husband’s lifetime and afterwards, Mrs. Fred Whittall carried on her manifold good works. Ever hospitable (as many visiting bishops, clergy and students know), always charitable (no appeal ever lacked her generous support), at one moment lending her grounds to the British Community for an Empire Day Party, at the next opening a bazaar, a most regular church-goer all her life, she was ever the first to visit and help anyone in trouble.
With the passing of a great personality, the twilight seems to fall on the spacious days when there were many large houses and servants, whose mistresses, in England at least, displayed the same strong, downright and forthright manner, concealing hearts of gold. To be able to say, “I’ll box your ears”, to anyone who was poorly or to a bishop who had refused a second helping, without ever giving offence, was something only such people could do. Inevitably such a dear character was known as “Aunt Alithea”. It is sad but significant that at the moment of going to Press the Chaplain has received a letter from a clergyman in Scotland, who as an ordinand visited Bornova and ends his letter: “Best wishes to Aunt Alithea and others. Yours ever...”
It is typical that when she chose to undergo a severe operation in Cyprus two years ago, she returned and never mentioned it. Upon the last year or so of her life was laid a burden of sickness such as she had never experienced, and which she bore unflinchingly. She continued to receive Holy Communion regularly, together with her friends around her as she wished. She died as she had lived, courageously, with faith and a clear conscience; “blessed are the dead which die in the Lord.” At her funeral at St. Mary Magdalene’s, on 17th May, the British Consul, Mr. R.E. Wilkinson, O.B.E., read the lesson, and the internment followed at the Bornova Anglican Cemetery. R.I.P.
S.V.H.B. [Anglican Chaplain, Bird]
Charlton James Giraud
Vol II, no. 1 – Autumn 1955
Some Old Houses in Bornova (Donald H. Giraud)
Vol II, No. 3 – Spring 1956
Some old houses of Bornova (continued) Donald H. Giraud
Vol II, No: 6 – Winter 1956-1957
At the porch of St. Mary Magdalene’s, Bornova
Doris Ellen Charnaud
It is almost impossible to pay sufficient tribute to the memory of Doris Ellen Charnaud, and all she meant to St. Mary Magdalene’s Church. When she was taken from us she left a void which only the recollection of a talented singer, a most regular worshipper and sweet Christian character, can any measure fill.
The late Mrs. Edwin Charnaud (nee Pengelley) was born at Nazilli, where her father was Manager of the MacAndrews and Forbes Factory. She came to Bornova, where she was married, before the inauguration of the Turkish Republic, and here she brought up her daughter, now Mrs. (Molly) Wood of Aden. She lived near her sister, Mrs. Grace Whittall, and later her brother, Mr. Walter Pengelley from Cyprus, together with many cousins, some of whom also shared her connections with Buca. Just as she made Bornova her home, she found her spiritual home at St. Mary Magdalene’s Church, and both mourn the loss of one of the most beloved members of their family.
There was always a kindly simple welcome for the many friends who loved to visit Mr. and Mrs. Edwin Charnaud in their charming home and delightful garden. Mrs. Charnaud was fond of animals, and one was usually greeted by a pack of rather spoilt little dogs. There were song birds, chirping cheerfully, a shoal of gold fish swimming near the surface of the pool when they heard their mistress’ voice.
In all she did, be it as the wife of our Churcwarden, a choir leader, bazaar worker, decorating the church or attending meetings (she represented Bornova at the Gibraltar Diocesan Festival on several occasions) she did all “as unto the Lord”. How bravely she endured her last year of two’s affliction is widely known, but perhaps it is not generally realised that her wonderful fortitude and patience were the fruits of her deep Christian conviction, simple faith and prayer. In her declining days, when she could no longer come to the church she loved so well, she regularly received the Blessed Sacrament of Holy Communion. She was also a founder-member of our Bible Reading Fellowship, and with the aid of Notes, read the Scriptures daily from the Holy Bible, which together with her Prayer Book was always at her bedside.
Her burden was lightened, too, by the true devotion and unfailing attentions of her husband, and the care and sympathy of her nearest and dearest relations and friends. It was a great joy to her to have her little grandson, with his father and mother, to stay with them at this time. Being fond of good literature as well as music she derived an immense amount of pleasure from the many excellent books which Miss Madalene Whittall read to her daily.
Perhaps the greatest of God’s mercies was that she passed peacefully away in her sleep on 30th September . It was Michaelmas and the Burial Service was beautified by the Michaelmas Daisies, filling the altar vases which Mrs. Edwin Charnaud had herself brought back from England at Easter for her beloved church. Ellerton’s fine hymn, “Now the labourer’s task is o’er,” and the “Nunc Dimitis,” were sung by the choir, augmented by many from “town”. The Revd. J. Everett Blake read the lesson, Mr. Richard Abbott was at the organ, the Chaplain gave an address and conducted the service, and H.M. Consul-General represented the British Community. The church was full to overflowing, there were a great number of floral tributes and the internment followed in the Bornova Anglican Cemetery.
Stanley Borthwich Paterson
A great shock was sustained by the Bornova community when a telegram to a relation brought the tragic news of the despicable and cowardly attack in Cyprus, which led to the death of Douglas Williamson, at the age of forty-seven. Cowardly, because his E.O.K.A. assailant sent it in a parcel.
Mr. Williamson was born in Bornova and baptised at St. Mary Magdalene’s, Bornova. He had lived in Cyprus for thirty years, and had become the Head of the Boy Scout Movement in the island. He was a Churchwarden of the Anglican Church at Limasol, and amongst many social activities was President of the Rotary Club there. Despite his commercial responsabilities he gave loyal and invaluable service, which cost him his life, to the British Services. He was made Asst. District Commissioner of Platres, and at the time of his death in the prime of his life, Commissioner of the Troodos sub-area. He left no children and our deepest sympathy goes to his widow. Decorum est pro patria mori.
Vol II, no 7 – Spring 1957
Mildred Maud Petter
Peter Francis du Veluz Gout
Vol II, No: 8 – Summer 1957
Clerics and their contribution
Another memorable centenary
Flash back a century
Vol II, no. 9 – Autumn 1957
Albert James Whittall
Emmett Elijah Hundley
The Square in Bournabat
As far back as I can remember, the Square in Bournabat played a very important part in our lives. Here, most things started, everyone passed through at different times and always met at their gates to sit and chat whenever the weather permitted. The “gates” were an interesting and social feature of our happy carefree existence and three more especially were outstandingly popular. The Charlton Whittall gate had copious seating accommodation and lead out into the centre of the Square from a charming old garden and house, belonging to one of the older members of the family. Opposite was the “Big House Gate” where three generations often sat on a fine evening. Here Grannie Whittall accompanied by sons and daughters would come up the drive to see what was going on – sit for a while and be greeted by numerous grandchildren and young people with respect due to her age.
A little to the right was the “Wood’s Gate”, entrance to another attractive old home whose inmates we were brought up to regard as types of all that was cultured and fascinating. The owners of the property were Mr. and Mrs. Ernest Paterson, known by us as the “Marquise” for her stately carriage, handsome looks and humour. Her two sisters lived with her – Mrs. De Cramer, loved by all for her beauty and goodness, and Miss Hortense Wood, a remarkable artist whose numerous portraits and landscapes adorn so many of our walls. She had studied at Weimar and met Lizst, and was very musical. Two brothers, Mr. Fred Wood and Mr. John Wood completed the members of this unique household, which had an atmosphere of its own.
These old properties still exist to-day, though life and customs have changed considerably during the past 50 years and most of the older generation we so gratefully remember have passed on! The “club” was another centre of life in the Square. Here the men gathered after business hours, sitting outside in the road on fine days where one never failed to hear the soothing sound of “hubble bubble” pipes or the click clack of absorbing game of back gammon. Uncle Richard Whittall, his romantic cape flung over his shoulder, a rose in his hand, always had a gallant word for the ladies.
But I must not end up without including the lamp post in the middle of the Square which also played a part in the village scheme of things. It started with a waving petroleum light – humble in the extreme – a much beloved and irresistible target for all boys of Mr. Allan’s school with their catapults. Promoted to a gas jet it still continued to flicker, the glow a bit brighter – yet discreet enough not to spot light couples courting! I remember my mother saying that the lamp post served yet another purpose. Before the railway was built, or we had a resident village doctor – the old family medico rode out from town on his horse for every occasion and tethered it to the solid iron column! Here his patient nag waited while another infant was ushered into the rapidly growing community.
All this goes to show how much of our lives was focused round the Square and its doings – a centre which drew the community together like a magnet – and made it one big family.
Vol II, no. 10 – Winter 1957-58
Frederica Marion Evelyn La Fontaine
Walter Rowland George Pengelley
Candlesticks Vol II, no: 12 – Summer 1958
Origin of the Izmir Golf Club
Smyrna (now Izmir) can claim the distinction of being the first town here to introduce both tennis and golf into Turkey. The earlier generations of foreigners in the country were mainly keen sportsmen excelling in all physical exercises such as athletics, shooting, riding and so forth.
The Pan-Ionian Sports organised by Smyrna Greeks towards the latter half of the 19th Century attained a wide reputation and may well have been the inspiration leading to the revival of the Olympic Games in Athens in 1904 which have since become the World’s epic in sports. The introduction of golf however was not heralded with any blowing of trumpets. Two nostalgic Scotsmen round about 1903/4 got together a few kindred spirits and laid out 9 holes on the race course at Paradise some 10 miles out of town. The beginnings were modest. The railroad Smyrna to Aidin passed through the course and players to get there or back had only to flag any passing train to stop.
Council meetings were frequent and conducted with great ceremonial. The first item on the agenda was always “John Haig”. The President held that it helped the flow of ideas. “Gentlemen and King” was the signal announcing the opening of proceedings. Meetings never closed but were adjourned. So the records of minutes say. A round of “to your health” followed adjournment.
The Club survived the vicissitudes of 2 world wars but the major crisis that threatened its existence was in 1931 when the Club was told that its continued presence in Paradise was deemed undesirable. It is recorded in the Minutes of the Council Meetings and adjournments that followed, that blame was attributed for this untoward decision to the nervousness of the racehorses in the presence of the golfers of those days.
A problem facing the Council was dissolution or transference elsewhere. A decision was eventually taken to transfer the Club to its present site in Bornova.
A 18 hole course was laid out and a suitable Club House was constructed for the amenities of the 19th hole. The years that followed up to 1939 marked the greatest advance in the Club’s prosperity. But with the advent of the war the course progressively shrank to 12, 9, and finally only 6 holes.
With the end of the war in 1945 however the old spirit of the Club’s forbears came to life and its past time glories are gradually reviving.
The number of potential golfers is increasing and the modest beginnings of 2 Scotsmen some 50 years back laid the foundations of what is now proving a cause for much goodwill towards them by later generations from overseas.
Osmond Giraud (Hon. Sec. Bornova Golf Club)
Vol II, no. 13 – Autumn 1958
Mabel Ada Keyser
Henry Charles Oscar Hornstein
Richard Ward English